Are LED masks effective and worth the money? Experts discuss

Critics of the cosmetics industry are seeing the light in LEDs.

Beloved by beauty experts and celebrities alike, LED light therapy has been a popular cosmetic treatment to ward off unwanted signs of aging for decades—and is now widely available at home in the form of a mask or glow stick for your face.

Starting at around $100 and running into the thousands, these tools claim to rejuvenate skin by smoothing fine lines, reducing redness and inflammation, clearing acne, improving elasticity, increasing radiance, and balancing discoloration.

But are these high-tech products worth their high prices? A recent report in the Times UK questioned the claims.

Lyma, a brand that boasts home light therapy that is “100 times more effective than LED masks”, commissioned researchers at Imperial College London to audit claims made by their competitors. They found the efficacy of these products “highly questionable” and only affecting the “outer layer of the skin, rather than deeper into the dermis”.

However, UK advertising officials recently ruled that Lyma’s claims about their supposedly state-of-the-art cold “laser” are misleading and unsupported by evidence. Meanwhile, widely cited studies previously published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology and the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology have shown measurable benefits over traditional LED therapy.

LED masks and similar products have been on the market and approved by the Food and Drug Administration for decades.

Dr. Henry Legere is the Chief Medical Officer of Restore Hyper Wellness’, a US-based medical spa specializing in red light, infrared and cryotherapy. Legere told The Post that LED masks primarily target the outermost layer of skin, which comes with some superficial skin benefits.

He agreed that “for deeper changes, penetration into the dermis is required, which LED masks usually do not achieve.”

“Home devices can be effective,” insisted Dr. Legere. “They are useful for maintenance and mild to moderate skin concerns and can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone and texture, reduce inflammation and improve wound healing.”

NYC Board Certified Cosmetic Dermatology, Dr. Michele Green, explained to The Post, “The depth to which the LED penetrates the skin depends on the colors of the light emitted, as different colors of light carry different wavelengths.”

“Red light is believed to act on fibroblasts in the skin to produce collagen. In contrast, blue light is believed to act on porphyrins to exert a bactericidal effect on acne-causing bacteria. Red light carries a longer wavelength than blue light and has the deepest tissue penetration of most LED wavelengths.

“While LED masks can only affect the outer layer of skin, it is first important to understand what type of light and wavelength these masks use.”

Risks are usually minimal, including temporary redness, dryness or irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin.

“I’ve worked with many clients who have started using an LED facial mask at home and have seen the difference in their skin,” Mortar & Milk Clinical Esthetician Pam Marshall told The Standard.

“Just because an at-home LED doesn’t penetrate that deep doesn’t mean it’s not a really good measure—anyone who says otherwise doesn’t understand the trickle-down effect, where it makes the skin’s surface smooth and the skin’s barrier health positively affects everything beneath it.”

“Those masks are the equivalent of micro-dosing.”